An American in Romania : Sibiu

SIBIU - A MEDIEVAL FAIRYTALE CITY

The town was founded in the 12th century as the home for German settlers in Transylvania. Already two centuries later it was an important trade center with 19 guilds. It quickly became the main German city in Transylvania, known as the Eastern-most place with the Western European culture.

The Romanian population became important here during the 18th century, with numerous institutions operating in the city. After World War 1 and the collapse of the Austrio-Hungarian Empire, Sibiu became part of Romania with a big German and Hungarian population.

Sibiu looks like it was taken straight from a fairy tale and is one of the prettiest, cutest, and most charming towns I’ve ever seen. I know I shouldn’t say 'town' about a place with a population of around 150,000 inhabitants but this is how Sibiu feels. Around the city are the remains of medieval walls and towers, including the 13th-century Council Tower, and a beautiful Lutheran Church completed in 1520 where I got to experience an incredible occurrence.

Standing proudly between the Great Square (Piața Mare) and the Small Square (Piața Mică), the fortification is a seven-story Council Tower - the lasting symbol of power for Sibiu.

Tapering a little more at each level as it goes skyward, this historic defense structure was constructed at the end of the 13th century. It is mentioned in documents for the first time in 1324 and serves as a gateway on Sibiu’s second circle of fortifications.

A few superficial changes have been made down the centuries, resulting in the current Baroque design. A very interesting tower, full of history. At one time, the city used it to hold prisoners on the top level, grain storage on lower levels, and at other times, they used it as a watch point.

If you’re wondering about the tower’s name, it comes from the building next door, which used to hold the Town Hall (Council). On the south side, if you're lucky enough to see it, you can make out the reliefs of two lions carved in the late 16th century. We only got to spend about two hours in the city during this trip so I wasn't able to hunt for the lions. I will be returning soon so it is on my list!

The first thing we did was climb the 141 stairs to see the clock mechanism on the 5th floor and then survey Sibiu’s rooftops from the top. Here's the first thing I noticed. I had heard about this in my readings but...now I got a chance to witness them in person.

While walking around Sibiu, Romania, I noticed something just a tad bit odd. I may be paranoid but I got the eerie sense someone, or something, was watching me. While I gazed out of the Council Tower stone windows at the city’s beauty and architecture, I realized the houses were staring back at me.

Many of the houses on the south and east sides of the city look as though they have eyes peering from their roofs. Though the cartoonish eyes may look like some sort of sinister Big Brother surveillance system, they’re actually just oddly shaped windows. The houses here use them as a cooling system for their oftentimes inhabited attics. Most of the houses with “eyes” were built between the 15th and 19th centuries.

I asked my Romanian friend who said, despite their obvious practical purposes, some locals claim these peepers were built to instill fear in people, letting them know they were always being watched and to behave accordingly. When dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu was in power, this architectural detail felt extra disturbing to the citizens. It wasn’t enough the telephones were tapped, people were being questioned, and families were blacklisted. It’s as if the houses were watching their every move too.

And now, although the former Communist leader Ceauşescu is long gone, the eyes are still there, as they have been for over five centuries. At first I thought it was kinda creepy but after looking out over the city then walking the cobblestone street, the 'eyes' give the city character. Unblinking, unmoving, and always observing their visitors to beautiful Sibiu.

Upon entering the tower, the first floor has a depiction of an executioners pose.

The Sibiu Lutheran Church from Council Tower

As we climbed the tower, there were several levels which exhibited art for sale from local artists. I thought Uncle Karl would like some of them.

The 6th level displays the clock towers mechanical workings.

After descending the Council Tower, we exited into the upper square.

Liar’s Bridge – this was the first iron bridge built in Romania (in 1859 - you can see the date written on the bridge). There are three legends associated to the bridge’s name. All of them involve; it's either a lie detector or the death place for liars. Just to be on the safe side, I recommend you don’t say anything when you cross the bridge!

(This photo I found on-line as I couldn't take a better shot than the one below because of time)

Sibiu Lutheran Church - construction began in 1371 and was completed in 1520. The cathedral is one of the greatest and largest Gothic churches in Transylvania. Its massive 241 foot tall (73.34 m) steeple is a landmark of the city. The four turrets situated on top of the steeple were a sign to let foreigners know the town had the right to sentence to death. It belongs to the Lutheran, German-speaking, Evangelical Church of Augustan Confession in Romania.

We were unable to tour the interior of the church as it was undergoing renovation while we were there. We fortunately got the opportunity to ascend the rickety stairway to the top of the bell tower though.

There is a small statue of a bear affixed to the east end of the cathedral. Bears inhabit the mountains surrounding Sibiu and have long been honored.

If you look closely at the differences in this picture and the one below, you can see the far bell swinging as it rang 24 times - two times for each hour (and it was noon).

So CAPT Jack Knick and I climbed the stairs to the top of the bell tower. We passed these massive bells on our way up one more story. After peering like children out the portal windows at the top of the cathedral, amazed by the beauty of the quaint town and the wonder of the Faragas Mountains to the east, we started our descent of the stairs.

As we reached the bell level, the first clangs of the noon alarm sounded. It was amazing to stand aside these multi-ton iron bells and hear their majesty ring throughout the countryside - and we were just ten feet away. I must say it was a little loud, but it was a once in a lifetime opportunity.